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Walking Horse people are a
pretty friendly bunch, and are always willing to help out with a
bit of worthy advice. Here are some of the tidbits we have
gathered so far. Please feel free to
email us
and add your two cents.
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Tuesday, November 25,
2003
hi
Hello, if you use a floating or a sinking heater use a cage or it
will melt your rubber mate/plastic tank. (I have a rubber mate tank
only a small burn hole for sale!) I would make sure it is grounded.
Here is what I do for my water in the winter. I get a large
(giveaway UN-cracked) freezer. Take the lid off and fill it with
water. I cover it 3/4 of the way with a sheet of plywood put a hole
in the plywood and drop a heater in on the covered side (this keeps
the horses from putting their nose on it and getting burned) put the
cord through a small long PVC pipe (this keeps them from biting
through the cord) They last years. Its my Recycling contribution!
Mary Malone |
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From:
chsmtrl@aol.com
To:
TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2003 2:36 AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] WNV.......From another list
I attended a
seminar on West Nile last week at Kansas State University. The horse
information was given by Dr. Bonnie Rush, Clinical Sciences,
KSU College of Veterinary Medicine. Just thought I would pass on
some of the more pertinent and interesting information she
presented. Feel free to cut and paste this email to any other forums
or sites you wish. Refresh water containers 1 time per week. If you
have large stock tanks put in goldfish or minnows to eat the
mosquito larvae. Light colored horses seem more susceptible
and come down with the disease more frequently than dark colored
horses. A horse in the evening in a wooded pastures gets approx 2000
mosquito bites per hour. If unvaccinated, they are 25 times more
likely to get the disease and 8 times more likely to die if they get
the disease than vaccinated horses. Approx 27% of the horses get
protective antibodies without showing any signs. Old age and stress
(i.e. stallions) increase the occurrence. Vaccinate 2
times per year after initial first time booster, so give in early
spring and around July. Foals from vaccinated mares should be
vaccinated at 3,4, and 6 months. Foals from unvaccinated mares
should be vaccinated at 1,2,3, and 6 months. Cost for average
recovery if they get sick - $1100-$1400. Cost if they go
recumbent....$2500 and 70% of the ones that go recumbent will die
from it. They saw no correlation between the vaccine and abortion or
still birth but said an unvaccinated mare that contracted it was
much more likely
to lose her foal. Of the 55 cases that KSU saw this year, 5 were
vaccinated and all 5 lived that were vaccinated lived.
Dr. Suzy |
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----- Original Message
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From:
Deer Creek Farm
To:
TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March
10, 2003 11:22 AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders]
Parking out under saddle
Saddle him and practice parking him out with you standing there
holding him. Take the stirrup in your hand and tap him in the area
of his elbow/shoulder (will depend on personal adjustments and size
of horse where the stirrups fall, but it won't matter) as you give
him the voice command to park (whatever command you use). Do this on
both sides. When you have him parking out well well using the
stirrups from the ground, try getting on and use your foot in the
stirrup the same way, using the voice command to park. You can also
squeeze the withers of the horse both from the ground and while you
are in the saddle if you'd like to incorporate that.
When giving this lesson at first, I'd do it in the same place each
day so that he is mentally in tune to "lesson time". I wouldn't try
parking him out from his back in a different setting until he had
the lesson down really
well in his "park out" lesson spot. Hope this helps. If not, I'm
sure someone else knows of a better way.
Good luck!
Mary :)
PS In the beginning, you may have to be pretty "obvious" about the
stirrup tapping, but as he gets better, you will be able to reduce
the signal to just slight movement and/or voice command/wither
squeeze. |
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Reread a 1940 magazine
article I have about Wilson's Allen and came up with these horses
by Wilson's Allen:
Victor Allen
Strolling Jim
Pride of Memphis
The G Man
Haynes Peacock
Nellie Gray
Wilson Allen Jr.
Wilson Allen Again
Melody Maid
Strolling Mary
Wilson Allen's Lady
Merry Legs III
Melody Maid
Knox Phagan
Carter's Allen
Newhi
Strolling Sister
The article mentioned
that Wilson' Allen did not live long enough to see the
championships won by his great offspring.
-cyndy
Webmaster's Note: For a complete list of the progeny of
Wilson's Allen, click
HERE.
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----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, May 17, 2002 9:05 PM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] aggressive filly
Hi, My friend needs some advice.
She has as TWH mare that foaled in a big pasture and wouldn't let
people or horse near the filly until it was four weeks old.
Then the mare started bringing it up every day, but the filly
naturally didn't want to be touched. My friend is trying to
make friends with the filly, but when she tried to pet or
scratch her, the filly tries to kick or bite the owner. This
is the owners first foal, there is a barn but no round pen.
Some of her friends said not to worry about it the filly will come
around, while others said if needed, rope her foot and throw her
down and get a halter on her. I know that you all have had
lots more experience than anyone here, so any advice will be
appreciated. Thanks for your help.
Trouble |
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Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 6:04 PM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] aggressive filly
Hi,
We USED to have a mare who wouldn't
allow much contact with her babies, and I wouldn't get to do much
with them until weaning. Sometimes the colt would initiate
contact out of curiosity and momma wouldn't have it, but the colts
did a complete turn around during weaning. A feed bucket can
work wonders. Instead of just putting feed out for them,
teach them that they have to come close enough to you to get a
bite out of the bucket. Just settle for that for a few days.
As the colt becomes more relaxed with that arrangement, SLOWLY
initiate a little petting with your free hand, and not around the
head. Start at their chest or neck area and work slowly with
what the colt will accept. It won't be long that the colt
will think that's just a part of feeding time. Try haltering
the same way. Let them get used to you rubbing it around on
them at feeding time and slowly halter him. I've even
started them out leading by following me and the feed bucket
around in the stall. If they lead one circle around
smoothly, reward them with a bite out of the bucket. The
more you tug, the more he'll lock up those front legs. We
can usually lead in both directions and stop on "whoa" in no time.
Make all of your sessions short and quit on a good note.
Good luck,
Donna
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Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002 4:16 PM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Re: aggressive filly
I have had unhandled "wild"
weanlings join-up with me in a small enclosed area. I have even used
a 12X24 foaling stall for this. What I try to do is stand back
towards their hip and butt just so they can barely see me out
the corner of one eye. Shouldn't be a problem since as you approach
this filly in a enclosed area she will swing her butt at you. When
you are in position behind her, slap your leg and cluck to her.
Don't get too close or she will bolt off. As soon as she turns just
a hair, take a step back and be quiet. You first have to get her
head to get her trust and respect. This will take timing and
patience but she will start to turn around fully and back-offing if
timed correctly she will soon follow you around the stall of
enclosed area. You really don't need to chase the filly around in a
round pen to get this to work. If I can just get her to turn the
head the first few days that would be good.,,,,,, mike |
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Sent: Saturday, May 18, 2002
1:38 PM
Subject:
[TWHbreeders] Re: aggressive filly
Lots of choices on this. I wouldn't wait til weaning. What
we do twice a day is take a bucket or something low and sit
quietly in the stall while mom is eating and after a period the
colt is to curious to stand not checking out the new thing in the
stall. Don't make any fast moves and let it just smell you the
first few times. You usually
over time can start stroking the neck and so on. We at this point
put a foal halter on with a 12 in. grab strap. We only use the
grab strap to keep them facing us and not turning butt end to us.
Hasn't failed yet and it takes patience and time. But the baby
learns to trust and not be terrified. I agree roping and holding
the foal down if it's this scared is not a good move. Remember
horses are a flight animal and if left with little human contact
fall back on that and fight when cornered. This baby is doing what
is natural for being born and living in a pasture. Wish your
friend the best of luck and lots of patience.
Cher
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From:
Gege36@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 6:16 PM
Subject: Horse AHolic
Hello, I AM a horse-aholic. I would like to welcome all of you
to this month's online meeting of Horse-Aholicas Anonymous.
You may be sitting there thinking that you are OK, and don't
really need any help. It is not easy to realize that you are a
horse-aholic, and even harder to bring yourself to a HA
meeting for help. HA is here to assist you. I have some
questions to ask to try to determine if you can be helped:
1. Can you say
'sheath' in public without blushing?
2. Do you know exactly what 'snaffle' means? (No, it is not
a drink!)
3. Do you drive a truck with some type of towing package
and/or dual rear
wheel when everyone else you know drives a real car?
4. Do you have more than one type of trailer because you own
horses?
5. Do you spend your holidays going to shows, sales,
clinics, and seminars when
everyone else goes on cruises?
6. Do you discuss things at the dinner table that would make
a doctor leave in
disgust?
7. Do you consider formal wear clean jeans and freshly
scraped boots?
8. Does the inside of your home look like your interior
decorator is 'State Line
Tack'?
9. Do you often have barn boots on your front porch?
10. Is your mail made up primarily of breed magazines and
horse catalogs?
11. Do your shirt pockets often contain bits of feed, hay,
and empty syringe
covers?
12. Do you worry about paying your monthly feed bill before
you think of paying
your electric bill?
13. When you meet a person, do you ask how many horses they
have, and pity
them if the answer is none?
14. Do you remember the name of a great-great-great
grandsire when you can't
remember your own Great grandfather's name?
15. Is your primary dream in life to breed the perfect foal?
16. Do you find non-horse people boring?
17. Is 99% of your e-mail about horses?
18. Do you have a collection of bits even larger than your
collection of horses?
19. Does you halter collection include more than four foal
halters, all the same
size?
20. Do you know more than five people this list fits
exactly?
If you answered
YES to three of these questions, you are in pretty good shape.
You will lead a long,
dull life, and never call your mother and tell her "I'm in the
hospital, but everything is fine! The horse is ok."
If you answered
YES to 10, you are in serious trouble. Give in gracefully, and
become a member of Horse-Aholics Anonymous now... You will
qualify eventually anyway.
If you answered
YES to 15 or more, you are incurable. My advice to those who,
like me, are incurable is as follows.....Sit back, smile, read
your email, and know that your life will always be filled with
good friends and better horses, and it will never be boring!
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From:
Hillcrest
To: TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 9:11 AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] New Foals/Colostrum
Absolutely right! If I am going to save any at all it is
the first day and sometimes the 2nd if mom has a lot, but I
never go past the 2nd day. Guess if I thought I had to for
some reason, I would, but I never have. And I always tell
people to thaw it at room temperature, never in a Microwave. I
have never had to use any, I have always given it away to
people who have needed it. I have never been able to sell any,
and would not even know what to ask for it. I know I have been
told it is like Liquid Gold, being the lifesaver it is. I have
had 2 people recommended by my (our) vet to call me because he
has told them I may have some for them and this year I don't
have any. I have one mare who will foal (hopefully) next year
and she is quite the heavy milker, so I will do it again next
year...just in case of Emergencies, I like to plan ahead, if
possible!
Vicky |
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From:
Dodi
Speece
To: TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 7:16 AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] New Foals/Colostrum
Vicki,
The first day has the best colostrum, quality tapers off after
that, it can be heat treated but as far as I know it is not
needed with equine milk. The second day would still help an
orphan or one that is not on Mom real well, but the first milk
is the strongest.
Dodi
McDodi Farms
Quality Tennessee Walking Horses
http://www.McdodiFarms.com//index.html
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From:
Hillcrest
To: TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, April 15, 2002 7:39 PM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] New Foals/Colostrum
Does anyone out there regularly save any of the mare's
Colostrum for emergencies? I used to do this pretty much on a
regular basis when I could do it, and it has helped or saved
other foals more than once. How I do it is wash the mares
udders and milk her out once a day for the first two days. You
could probably go for three, but I don't. And you don't
want to take anything away from baby either. But I get a glass
container (bowl or glass) and get what I can. Try to
keep it as clean as possible. I then take the Colostrum and
transfer it into
Ziploc Baggies, noting the mare and date that it was collected
and freeze it. I am sure others have different ways, but
that's what I do. I believe it lasts a year or so. I don't put
a whole lot in the baggies either, just a few ounces in each
for quick thawing and none gets wasted that way.
Vicky |
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From: Lynn Henschell
To:
TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 11, 2001 5:52 AM
Subject: Re: [TWHbreeders] Stallion manners?
I really like stallions. We have 3 now and I have had others
in the past. Some made and some foaled here. If you are not
going to use him for breeding in any substantial way, do the
kindest thing you can do and geld him. You can breed to the
best TWH's for less than it costs to care for him in one year.
Failing that, have a great deal of respect for what nature
intended for them to do. Put him outside 24/7 and let him be a
stallion. Let him oversee the mares and foals and the activity
on the farm. Don't isolate him. Keep him on a schedule. Work
him, ride him, channel that energy into something positive.
Use him for breeding in the same spot every time and keep the
routine the same so he'll know exactly what is expected of
him. Correct him firmly and promptly and let it go, don't pick
at him or put him in situations that provoke
confrontations. Don't let people handle him or ride him who
are afraid of him. Don't let macho guys ( or girls) do
anything with him. Those people who think it is cool to be
able to handle a stallion and try to show off with them
eventually get hurt. Really the kindest thing is to geld them.
Lynn
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From: Brenda L. Byers
To:
TWHbreeders@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2001 9:04 AM
Subject: [TWHbreeders] Parking
I wouldn't pinch both sides of the withers. I usually touch
them an inch or two below the withers on one side or the other
depending on which leg I want to move. My hubby makes the
mistake of taking his hand and covering the withers and
squeezing, I think this confuses the horse.
We start out our young horses parking right before they are
let out of the stall to play or right before graining. They
soon figure out that if they park they get something in
return. Plus, when they are under saddle I don't get off until
they park. Again they can relate a treat to
parking. When they park, I get off.
One other problem I have had with young colts is that they
will try to move their hind legs in when you push their front
legs out. Standing them up hill will help, they tend to keep
their back legs still when standing on a hill. Stand them on a
hill, set their hind feet, then set the front feet. If they
move, reprimand immediately then reset the feet. If they stand
for just a few seconds pet them and let them know they are
doing good. Each time make them stand a little longer.
Just sharing my experiences! IMO, I love a parked horse either
in the ring or on the trail. I'm only 5'2" so parking is a
must around my house.
Brenda
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From:
rockinw@peoplescom.net (Fanella Wood)
Subject: pesky mosquitoes
HERE'S A GREAT SUMMER TIP!
Here is a good thing for the summer, for those people who like
to sit and enjoy the out of doors, but don't like those pesky
mosquitoes. I found it on gardening forum:
Put some water in a white dinner plate and add just a couple
of drops of Lemon Fresh Joy dishwashing soap. Put it on your
patio. I don't know what attracts them, the lemon smell, the
white color, or what, but mosquitoes flock to it, and drop
dead, and fall into the water, or on the floor within about 10
ft. I always have some problems with mosquitoes getting into
my big old house, so I set up one of these traps in my
kitchen, on the counter, a few days ago. Works just super.
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From: Lynnea LeBreton
To:
Gaitedtexas@yahoogroups.com
Sent: Monday, March 05, 2001 12:07 AM
Subject: [Gaitedtexas] with Lotsa MAYO!!!!
Old Trick.... after clipping spread a few huge handfuls of
Mayonnaise all over him. The egg and oils will make him shine.
Let it sit for a few hours and then shampoo off. Don't laugh,
it works!
Lynnea
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From: "Gary Clark"
dblcwalk@brokersys.com
Hi!
Thought you'd like to know about a really useful new web page
that demonstrates how to trim and shoe horses to help improve
intermediate gaits. This is EXCELLENT information, taken from
Brenda Imus' book, GAITS OF GOLD.
You'll find it at:
http://www.crossoverpub.com/shoeing.html
Have a smoo-oo-ooth day!
Lee Wilson, Outreach Coordinator
CrossOver Publications
http://www.crossoverpub.com
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From: Anna Barwick
ambarwick@yahoo.com
Hey All,
This is a neat web site regarding training, riding and ground
work. It touches on most of the NH techniques and has links
for more info. Includes TTEAM, Parelli, etc.
http://www.equestrienne.com/TheHorsePark/iceryder/ground.html
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From:
MetzTWH@aol.com
Re: trailering foals
(Where is Janet? She has the best method for baby trailering
I've ever seen.... hauled a weanling from PA to Florida...
with a video camera in the trailer and the TV screen in the
truck so they could see her.... really cool.)
If anyone needs to know how my husband rigged the camera/TV
setup let me know and I'll ask him for instructions. We didn't
buy anything special except some cable and connectors. We used
our video camera and our little Sony B&W Watchman TV. The
truck and trailer are still wired so anytime we need to use it
we just put the camera on the mount in the trailer and plug in
the TV inside the truck.
It was wonderful to be able to watch Latte' and know how she
was doing. It also helped us make good time since we didn't
have to stop as often just to check on her (which would have
been every 10 minutes LOL). I learned some really interesting
things watching her for 1,000 miles. We have a 2 horse slant
Featherlite. We removed the divider and used the trailer like
a box stall. Latte' wasn't tied. She rode most of the time
sideways directly over the trailer axle. When she felt braking
she would turn and face the rear. We were on some bumpy under
construction highways in Virginia and it was very interesting
to see that she had a smoother ride than we did. I would have
thought just the opposite. One other thing I would recommend
is to have someone haul you in the trailer for a short
distance and notice the noise level. I found several things
that were banging and making much more noise than I would have
imagined. The tie rings were really bad. I ended up wrapping
them.
Janet
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From:" Mike Aldredge"
hilhaven@industryinet.com
Subject: Mares with foals out together
Dodi,
Hi. It has been several years since I did that, but here's
what I did. Now, mind you I only had two mares w/foals to
worry with, but I surely did not let them run with any other
horses while they had their foals w/them. So one mare
delivered about 2 weeks before the other one. The second mare
and foal was put in with the other mare and foal when the
newest foal was about 1 week old. The mare w/ the newest foal
kept it away from the other foal for about another week. No
harm came to either and all went well between the mares. They
were accustomed to each other anyway.
Pat
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Subject: Spurs/riding crop
From:
Suebaru2@aol.com
Before you use whips and spurs (and I use both), be certain
that you CAN use them. If you wear spurs, you want to be able
to use them when you WANT to use them, and not extraneously.
Take lessons (longe line lessons are best.. (heehee) so that
your leg learns to stay put and quiet, and you learn to use
the rest of your leg before your spur gets involved. In other
words, you want to be able to use the spur only to reinforce a
cue that the horse ignored. So... if you want the horse to do
something, you give a slight cue with your leg. If the horse
responds appropriately, that's all there is to it. If he
doesn't respond, you ask again with a stronger leg. If he
STILL doesn't respond, then a tap with the spur is in order...
and after that the whip gets involved. Some TWH trainers use
those big sharp evil spurs and they pull their legs back and
down and stick their heels up to jab the horse in the belly.
That will not produce a happy, willing horse. It will produce
a horse that goes hollow, resentful, and in pain.
Sue
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On Foals Chewing Tails
From: "Karen Neal-Naylor"
goldustgirl@hotmail.com
There is a product I used to get at the pet stores in Oregon,
called Bitter Apple, I used it on my dogs to stop them from
chewing on themselves. Believe me it tastes really nasty, and
they won't try to keep chewing! <G> If your local pet stores
don't carry it, I bet they could order it for you.
Karen
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Michelle Marble
mmarble@mindspring.com
(On fitting saddles)
I always use a pad of some sort, regardless of the saddle
type. NEVER put synthetic materials on your horse, ONLY use
cotton or wool pads or blankets. Synthetics can cause hot
spots. Most people fit the saddle TOO far forward. When
girthed, the girth should be at least a hands with behind the
elbow of the horse. Be sure that any metal on the girth (rings
on western, buckles on dressage girths) do not end directly
behind the elbow. The girth should be long enough to clear the
elbows on both sides, but not so long that you can't tighten
effectively. Always have leather billets on at LEAST on side
of the saddle (some saddles have web billets on both sides).
Web has no give, and in a dire emergency, leather will break
before injuring your horse too badly (i.e., say a stirrup gets
caught in a pole or tree branch or something and the horse is
running, the leather will break before your horse does!).
Always fit the saddle to look LEVEL on the horse's back. If
the back of the saddle is higher than the front, then the tree
is too wide, and the saddle is lying on the withers. If the
saddle is higher in the front, then you either have too narrow
a tree for the horse, or the horse has a dropped back (age,
broodmares, extremely high withers, etc), and you will either
need a wider tree (check the fit at the shoulders/withers) or,
if the horse has a dropped back, you will need a bump pad to
raise the back, but not the front. You should be able (after
the saddle is girthed) to insert your fingers between the
horse and the saddle at the shoulders WITHOUT feeling a
pressure point (i.e., the fit should be snug because you have
tightened the girth, but you should be able to put your hand
ANYWHERE between horse and saddle and feel uniform snugness,
but NOT a pinching point. Always check the BACK of the saddle.
Too often we check the wither/shoulder area, but forget to
check the back of the saddle. Some horses and saddle trees do
NOT mix in the back. Often I find a saddle that drops right
back on the rear of the horses back and when the person sits
in the saddle, it just exasperates the problem and the horse
is in excruciating pain. Remember, we want our horses to be
rewarded for rounding their back, not punished. The best money
you can spend is on quality tack that fits your horse
correctly. I would rather see the horse comfortable, and the
rider miserable, than the other way around. Buy for the horse,
not the rider (if you have to chose) and best option is buy a
saddle that fits both. I just learned recently that many of my
past discomforts in the saddle were due to trying to ride a
saddle that was too small for ME! I knew they fit the horse
right, but couldn't figure out why the saddle hurt me, after
all, it was supposed to be a quality saddle, and then
discovered that it was because it was REALLY too small, and I
did not realize it! Got a larger saddle, and have been a lot
happier! On western saddles, try to find one where the girth
ring (rigging) is not directly below the pommel of the saddle.
Many western saddles are rigged there, and this is a great
source of discomfort for the horse. The rigging should
actually be an inch or two BEHIND the pommel to reduce
pressure points on the horse.
Michelle
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From: Lynnea LeBreton
Subject: scours & scalding
A good suggestion.... prior to the actual start of the Foal
Heat, put a nice thick layer of Vaseline on the foals cheeks,
hocks & underside of tail. It'll help prevent the scalding and
hair loss from the scours. ol' trick of mine,
Lynnea
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From: Becki
Drozd
Sent: Tuesday, December 04, 2001 8:33 PM
Subject: on taming a foal
I would put the foal in the stall, too, and work with it
there. How Dar was saying to handle it was good. You must
always get the colt to face you--and when it does make sure
you reward it my being real still and just stand there. If it
sticks it's butt at you at anytime, you have to get it to turn
around and face you. If it has a tendency to kick, I would
take a crop or something in with me, any time it turns it's
butt at you, I would tap it on the butt and tell it no--when
you tap it the colt will move. So, if it moves and faces you,
you must reward it--so be still and stop moving--don't stare
at it in the eyes, either--any time it moves forward to you,
even a hint of forward, reward it by stepping back slightly.
this takes the pressure off the colt and gives it comfort.
Never chase it---chasing creates the most damage. Soon it
should feel comfortable enough where you can start attempting
to catch it up, by this I mean to at least get close to it. So
by now you should be able to enter the stall, the colt will
still probably move away from you, but turn around and look at
you. The next part is trying to go to the colt and touch
it---it will try to get away, but if it's not too vigorous
(meaning it doesn't throw a super-duper fit with rearing and
all that), you stay with that colt till it stops and when it
stops, immediately stop with it, pat it and reassure it that
you aren't going to hurt it. Start in that safe
zone---withers, shoulders, along the back. Find the spot it
likes to be rubbed the most--this may take a while. Eventually
you will want to be able to enter the stall, have the colt
turn and face you and when you ask it to come to you it will.
Then you start getting it de-sensitized all over it's
body--you approach and retreat with any area that is touchy.
Picking up the feet will be last--they won't let you pick up
their feet unless they trust you. As soon as you pick up a
foot and the colt relaxes, let the foot down. This is at least
a start!
Becki Drozd
once it is real comfy with you, turning it out with a horse
that loves to come running to get patted is the best, like
someone else already said. it will learn by example
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----- Original
Message -----
From: Jana Anderson, DVM
Sent: Thursday, December 06, 2001 8:12 PM
Subject: another tip
In spite of all of our own biases (I have them too), research
has proven that (at least with thoroughbreds) those that are
started and raced at 2 or slightly younger are sounder as 5
year olds than those horses that were started as 3-4 year
olds. It has to do with bone stress and subsequent increased
bone strength. Keep in mind that these horses were on balanced
nutrition, and that many of our breeds' young horses aren't
fed properly (especially when it comes to mineral ratios and
the tendency for feeding excessive carbohydrates), thus the
problems we see the most of (OCD, physitis, etc.) aren't
directly due to early riding, but can be worsened by it. Good
genetics, conformation, proper hoof care and angles, and
nutrition are the key factors when it comes to preserving
soundness. After that, common sense tells us to avoid things
that could load their joints/tendons unevenly, i.e., uneven
ground and tight circles. And, remember the 25% rule--you and
your tack should not weigh more than 25% of your adult horses'
weight. It should be less for immature horses.
Jana Anderson, DVM |
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----- Original Message -----
From:
Janet Sides
Sent: Nov. 6, 2002
Subject: Rain Rot
I use 4 oz Lysol cleaner in 2
gallons of warm water, sponge it all over the horse and leave
it on. Repeat daily for a week and also clean their brushes
and saddle pads in the same solution. I have had great success
with this for many years. It doesn't dry their skin out and
make them itch, and it doesn't stain them weird colors.
Janet. |
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----- Original Message -----
From:
John H. Lewis
Sent: Nov. 6, 2002
Subject: Rain Rot |
Anyone
out there suffering from rain rot? Your horses that is. With
two plus weeks of wet weather, 6 out of 8 of mine have had
some or a lot. If yours are in the same situation, below is a
recipe that seems to work well. It has cleared it up on my
horses.
1/2 cup of vinegar
1/2 cup of iodine
1/2 cup of rubbing alcohol
1 Tablespoon of Clorox
Happy trails, John |
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Last Updated:
February 13, 2004 |
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